Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor’s Jewelry Get the Museum Treatment

A new exhibition at the Palazzo Reale tells of some of the greatest love stories—through jewelry.

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Few things hasten a woman’s heartbeat like jewelry. Consider Cleopatra and the precious stones with which she dazzled Mark Antony, or the vast collection of jewels Elizabeth Taylor acquired through her passionate love affairs (with both men and diamonds). The latter includes the famous Van Cleef & Arpels Barquerolles Lion necklace–a gift from Richard Burton, the man she would marry not just once but twice–which now stands as the centerpiece of the high jewelry Maison’s new exhibition, Van Cleef & Arpels: Time, Nature, Love.

Housed in Milan’s Palazzo Reale, the exhibit showcases more than 400 creations produced by Van Cleef & Arpels since it was founded in 1906, following Alfred Van Cleef’s marriage to Estelle Arpels. Alba Cappelliere, professor of jewelry and accessory design at the Polytechnic University of Milan and the curator of the exhibit, highlights this role of romance in the house’s history: “I believe love is the most powerful energy in the world, and every piece of jewelry is crafted with love,” she says. “Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry influenced some of the most legendary love stories of the 20th century with its symbols and gifts of love.”

Barquerolles Lion necklace, 1971

Inspired by Venetian door knockers, the Barquerolles Lion necklace was a gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor in 1971 after the birth of her first grandchild. The passionate love story that united these two Hollywood icons abounds with extraordinary pieces like this one, which depicts a lion’s head made from yellow gold, emeralds and diamonds.

Tiara, 1976

In 1956, Prince Rainier III visited the New York Van Cleef & Arpels boutique to buy a diamond and cultured pearl set for his fiance, American actress Grace Kelly, who would soon become the Princess of Monaco. That same year, the maison became the official supplier to the principality of Monaco, thus supplying Princess Grace with numerous jewels like this tiara, which she wore to the wedding of her daughter Caroline to Philippe Junot.

Romeo and Juliet Brooches, circa 1951

Inspired by the star-crossed lovers from Shakespeare’s masterpiece (1597), Van Cleef & Arpels produced a pair of clips from Romeo and Juliet’s famous balcony scene. Their silhouettes are rendered with yellow gold threads and ribbons, while rubies, sapphires, emeralds and pearls bring them to life.

Five leaves clip, 1967

Few things rival Greek soprano Maria Callas' love for opera than her love for Van Cleef & Arpels creations, thus, "La Divina" became a regular at the Palace Vendôme boutique. Her favorite piece was this Five leaves clip made of platinum set with Burmese oval rubies and diamonds, weighing a total of 16.35 carats.

Zip necklace, 1951

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS COLLECTION

Cappelliere’s favorite piece in the collection, the Zip necklace is undoubtedly one of the most avant-garde high-jewelry creations of its time. A brief chronology of how it came about goes something like this: In 1937, Socialite Wallis Simpson and British King Edward VIII rock the nation with arguably the most controversial marriage of the 20th century. Around this time, the new Duchess of Windsor is said to have suggested a piece of jewelry inspired a zipper to Van Cleef & Arpels’ Artistic Director, Renée Puissant. Just over a decade later, the Zip necklace was produced, exemplifying the influence of couture on the maison’s creative universe.